Now that I have moved back to the U.S., I am often overcome with cravings for hand-pulled noodles or spicy dongpo pork knee (trust me, it’s delicious) or bitter melon.

Sichuan pulled noodles (拉面), the perfect way to start your morning (Meishan, Sichuan)

A true Sichuanese feast (Meishan, Sichuan)

The best mapo tofu I’ve ever had (Chengdu, Sichuan)

Despite having a Chinatown, Washington D.C. is not a hub for quality Chinese food. Nevertheless, I scoured the interwebs for anything to tingle my tongue.

A friend and I visited Sichuan Pavilion, and we ordered Mapo tofu (麻婆豆腐), garlic paste chicken, and dandan mian (担担面). We ordered in Chinese, and the waiter followed up, “Chinese style or American style?” We answered in sync, “Chinese please.” Followed by the clichéd phrase, “不怕辣怕不辣 (bú pà là, pà bù là, not scared of spicy, scared not spicy enough).”

Mapo tofu at Sichuan Pavilion

Garlic chicken at Sichuan Pavilion

Dandan mian at Sichuan Pavilion

It was definitely spicy, but it still wasn’t the same. There was flavor, but it didn’t burst out at you like in China. I’ve always wondered, what is it exactly that’s missing in American-style Chinese cuisine?

While my stomach was on fire and I was so happy with that warm, burning sensation, my wallet was not so happy. The whole meal cost us about $36 (including tax and tip).

My insatiable stomach convinced me to return that very night and ordered two meat buns and Kung Pao Chicken, which, if done right, can be fantastic. However, the dish failed to please as the chicken pieces were pre-fried, and lacked both spice and cucumbers. Upon taking it home I poured the dish onto a frying pan and doused it with chili sauce, chopped up some cucumbers, and stir fried it for a few minutes.

Luckily, I have a ZipCar registration, and can now plan excursions to the predominantly Chinese suburbs in search of satiating my hunger for MSG + salt +  oil.

Already starting a “To Eat” list for my next trip to China.

Guard standing at one of the entrances to the Square

Sea of umbrellas

Just standing around with umbrellas, very inconspicuous

Tons of ?? (wujing, special police forces)

My bike route

Sunset on East Chang’an Ave

Chairman Mao is never alone

The restaurant

Trying to get seated

An empty Tiananmen Square

Below is a photo of central Beijing. My commute is the blue line, and Julia is the green line. We met up at a point on third ring road and continued together (purple) all the way home. I believe the total distance I biked was around 22 km (13 miles).

Although biking many miles in one day after an extended period of inactivity may not be the smartest thing to do, our bike adventure was worth it. I have to say, biking in Beijing is so different from the subway or taxi. In the subway, I see nothing but the faces of the commuters around me and hear nothing but the bilingual droning of the subway voices announcing which stop we are approaching, and how we should prepare to get off.

On a bike, I feel closer to the things I pass. I see the expressions on people’s faces as they cross the street, wait for the bus, or walk with their children. I see the tall buildings that did not exist a few years ago, and I see even more buildings on their way to join the others. It’s a good way to see the city, and I should get out on my bike more often before the heat [be]comes [unbearable].

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I don’t know what goes on in Chinese people’s minds when they get all wound up in determining someone’s ethnic background.  

In the past week I have spent thousands of yuan on rent, furniture, and appliances with my great new roommate and fellow Fulbrighter, Julia. This includes haggling over the prices of plates and bowls, spending about 6 hours at Ikea, and begging the owner to buy me a desk that isn’t 24 inches wide (think about it, that’s tiny). It’s been tiring physically, mentally, and financially, but things should improve rapidly. I also look forward to using our full-size built-in oven that is so coveted in China/Asia. 

To say the least, I am in love with my new Beijing life (except the air quality part), and hope these next ten months are fulfilling.